What temperature should my processor be running at?
Depending on the type of processor, the manufacturer, how fast it runs, where the sensor is located, and what programs it is currently running will determine the temperature of what the processor should be. However, this document should give you a general idea of what the processor should be running at as well as what is acceptable and what is not.
The majority of today's desktop processors should not exceed temperatures of 95C and most will run between 70-90C. Below are some charts of many of the processors and their average temperatures. Keep in mind this is only to give our users a general idea of what their processor should be running at. If you believe your computer is running to hot, you may wish to skip to the bottom of this document for additional details on how to get exact information about what your processor should be running at.
Processors Average temperature:
AMD Athlon 90C - 95C
AMD Athlon64 65C - 70C
AMD Athlon64 Mobile 95C - 100C
AMD Athlon MP 90C - 95C
AMD Athlon XP 85C - 90C
AMD Duron 85C - 95C
AMD Opteron 65C - 71C
AMD Sempron 90C - 95C
AMD K5 60C - 70C
AMD K6 65C - 70C
AMD K6 Mobile 80C - 85C
AMD K7 Thunderbird 70C - 95C
Intel Pentium II 65C - 75C
Intel Pentium III 60C - 85C
Intel Celeron 67C - 85C
Intel Pentium Mobile 100C
Intel Pentium Pro 80C - 85C
Reference from: http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm
Friday, July 24, 2009
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
CD or DVD Media Typical Lifespan
The Typical Lifespan of a CD is 3 years!
The Typical Lifespan of a DVD is ...
With proper care it is thought that CD-Rs should be readable one thousand times or more and have a shelf life of three to five years. Common handling practices can reduce shelf life to only one or two years. This seems to be the standard for DVD's also; however there are many variables that can come in to play...
When cleaning a CD: Dust can be removed from a CD's surface using compressed air or by very lightly wiping the information side with a very soft cloth (such as an eyeglass cleaning cloth) from the center of the disc in an outward direction. Fingerprints or stubborn dust can be removed from the information surface by wiping it with a cloth dampened with diluted dish detergent (then rinsing) or alcohol (methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol) and again wiping from the center outwards, with a very soft cloth (non-linting : polyester, nylon, etc.). It is harmful, however, to use acetone, nail polish remover, kerosene, petrol/gasoline, or any other type of petroleum-based solvent to clean a CD-R; the use of petroleum based solvents will damage the polycarbonate surface and the CD-R will become unreadable.
MAM-A estimates their Gold label CD-R's have a life-span of 300 years and the silver CD-R's of about 50 years. Other discs that they have tested look like they'll fail in 2 years or less.
Due to differences in organic dyes between CDs and DVD's, Gold label DVD's have a lab-rated life-span of 100 years, if handled properly. MAM-A silver label CDs and DVD's can start to degrade after 20-30 years.
MAM-A also recommends to improve data integrity and compatibility, burn your disks more slowly. Burn CDs at 16x speed and DVD's at 2x speed.
The Real Culprit
If you have purchased quality media from a quality manufacturer, you are still not assured of 50-100 years of data life!
You are the greatest danger to the data longevity of your personal, family and business information that is stored on CD and DVD. Direct exposure to sunlight and intense heat can do dramatic damage. Rapid changes in temperature and humidity can stress the materials. Gravity can bend and stress the discs. Fingerprints and smudges can do more damage than scratches.
But by following a few Do's and Don'ts you can ensure your precious family and friend pictures, movies, family records and business files have the maximum data life.
Do
* Handle discs by the outer edge or the center hole
* Use a non solvent-based felt-tip permanent marker to mark the label side of the disc
* Keep dirt or other foreign matter from the disc
* Store discs upright (book style) in original jewel cases that are specified for CDs and DVDs
* Return discs to their jewel cases immediately after use
* Leave discs in their spindle or jewel case to minimize the effects of environmental changes
* Remove the shrink wrap only when you are ready to record data on the disc
* Store in a cool, dry, dark environment in which the air is clean -- relative humidity should be in the range 20% - 50% (RH) and temperature should be in the range 4°C - 20°C
* Remove dirt, foreign material, fingerprints, smudges, and liquids by wiping with a clean cotton fabric in a straight line from the center of the disc toward the outer edge
* Use deionized (best), distilled or soft tap water to clean your discs. For tough problems use diluted dish detergent or rubbing alcohol. Rinse and dry thoroughly with a lint-free cloth or photo lens tissue
* Check the disc surface before recording
Do not
* Touch the surface of the disc
* Bend the disc
* Store discs horizontally for a long time (years)
* Open a recordable optical disc package if you are not ready to record
* Expose discs to extreme heat or high humidity
* Expose discs to extreme rapid temperature or humidity changes
* Expose recordable discs to prolonged sunlight or other sources of UV light
* Write or mark in the data area of the disc (area where the laser "reads")
* Clean in a circular direction around the disc.
* Reliable Medium There is a lot of cheap CDR and DVDR media that has marginal quality. For some applications like games, quality isn't critical. For irreplaceable, vital data like family photos, special events, vacations and family/friends memories quality does matter. If you are backing up mission critical data on your home or business computer, quality matters. Then it is important to select a brand of media that will keep your data safe, secure and available for years to come.
Quality and low prices just don't seem to mix!
The next step to long-term data reliability is to handle and store the media with the respect your data deserves.
RESOURCES:
http://www.audioholics.com/education/audio-formats-technology/cd-and-dvd-longevity-how-long-will-they-last
http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/107607/Storage_expert_warns_of_short_life_span_for_burned_CDs
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD-R#Expected_lifespan
http://www.larryjordan.biz/articles/lj_dvd_life.html
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_lifespan_of_a_DVD
The Typical Lifespan of a DVD is ...
With proper care it is thought that CD-Rs should be readable one thousand times or more and have a shelf life of three to five years. Common handling practices can reduce shelf life to only one or two years. This seems to be the standard for DVD's also; however there are many variables that can come in to play...
When cleaning a CD: Dust can be removed from a CD's surface using compressed air or by very lightly wiping the information side with a very soft cloth (such as an eyeglass cleaning cloth) from the center of the disc in an outward direction. Fingerprints or stubborn dust can be removed from the information surface by wiping it with a cloth dampened with diluted dish detergent (then rinsing) or alcohol (methylated spirits or isopropyl alcohol) and again wiping from the center outwards, with a very soft cloth (non-linting : polyester, nylon, etc.). It is harmful, however, to use acetone, nail polish remover, kerosene, petrol/gasoline, or any other type of petroleum-based solvent to clean a CD-R; the use of petroleum based solvents will damage the polycarbonate surface and the CD-R will become unreadable.
MAM-A estimates their Gold label CD-R's have a life-span of 300 years and the silver CD-R's of about 50 years. Other discs that they have tested look like they'll fail in 2 years or less.
Due to differences in organic dyes between CDs and DVD's, Gold label DVD's have a lab-rated life-span of 100 years, if handled properly. MAM-A silver label CDs and DVD's can start to degrade after 20-30 years.
MAM-A also recommends to improve data integrity and compatibility, burn your disks more slowly. Burn CDs at 16x speed and DVD's at 2x speed.
The Real Culprit
If you have purchased quality media from a quality manufacturer, you are still not assured of 50-100 years of data life!
You are the greatest danger to the data longevity of your personal, family and business information that is stored on CD and DVD. Direct exposure to sunlight and intense heat can do dramatic damage. Rapid changes in temperature and humidity can stress the materials. Gravity can bend and stress the discs. Fingerprints and smudges can do more damage than scratches.
But by following a few Do's and Don'ts you can ensure your precious family and friend pictures, movies, family records and business files have the maximum data life.
Do
* Handle discs by the outer edge or the center hole
* Use a non solvent-based felt-tip permanent marker to mark the label side of the disc
* Keep dirt or other foreign matter from the disc
* Store discs upright (book style) in original jewel cases that are specified for CDs and DVDs
* Return discs to their jewel cases immediately after use
* Leave discs in their spindle or jewel case to minimize the effects of environmental changes
* Remove the shrink wrap only when you are ready to record data on the disc
* Store in a cool, dry, dark environment in which the air is clean -- relative humidity should be in the range 20% - 50% (RH) and temperature should be in the range 4°C - 20°C
* Remove dirt, foreign material, fingerprints, smudges, and liquids by wiping with a clean cotton fabric in a straight line from the center of the disc toward the outer edge
* Use deionized (best), distilled or soft tap water to clean your discs. For tough problems use diluted dish detergent or rubbing alcohol. Rinse and dry thoroughly with a lint-free cloth or photo lens tissue
* Check the disc surface before recording
Do not
* Touch the surface of the disc
* Bend the disc
* Store discs horizontally for a long time (years)
* Open a recordable optical disc package if you are not ready to record
* Expose discs to extreme heat or high humidity
* Expose discs to extreme rapid temperature or humidity changes
* Expose recordable discs to prolonged sunlight or other sources of UV light
* Write or mark in the data area of the disc (area where the laser "reads")
* Clean in a circular direction around the disc.
* Reliable Medium There is a lot of cheap CDR and DVDR media that has marginal quality. For some applications like games, quality isn't critical. For irreplaceable, vital data like family photos, special events, vacations and family/friends memories quality does matter. If you are backing up mission critical data on your home or business computer, quality matters. Then it is important to select a brand of media that will keep your data safe, secure and available for years to come.
Quality and low prices just don't seem to mix!
The next step to long-term data reliability is to handle and store the media with the respect your data deserves.
RESOURCES:
http://www.audioholics.com/education/audio-formats-technology/cd-and-dvd-longevity-how-long-will-they-last
http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/107607/Storage_expert_warns_of_short_life_span_for_burned_CDs
Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/CD-R#Expected_lifespan
http://www.larryjordan.biz/articles/lj_dvd_life.html
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_lifespan_of_a_DVD
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Dell Optiplex GX280 wont work with case closed
Ok. Had a weird issue today. I had to work on a system that would not power on at first, so I replaced the power supply, and then did some internal cleaning. Tested all the hardware with my diagnostic tools... all was ok. I even started up into the O.S. just to check the operating system and make sure it was up to date and had an antivirus. After everything was done, I shut it down, closed the cover and turned it back on just to verify everything was ok. .....
It did not show the Dell logo and just had the BIOS version at the top left corner of the screen, and the monitor kept flickering / degaussing kind of.
I opened the case up and powered it on without any problem! Closed the case,... same thing. Opened it back up and was looking carefully in the computer for anything that would be shorting out... but it only happened when the case was closed. Bypassed the case switch that tells if the chasis has been opened or not. Took everything off the motherboard except bare bone equipment, and it did the same thing. Used a power supply tester to test the voltages on everything when the case was closed... everything tested ok. I had the same exact model to test with, so the next step was to put this motherboard in a working computer case, and vice versa...
Well After that they both worked!
Long story short, it ended up being that the power supply cable was laying on the memory chips when the case was closed. The power cables were heavy and caused strain on the motherboard which caused the video problems and the computer not to POST. Once the power cables were strapped to the side and out of the way ... everything worked.
It did not show the Dell logo and just had the BIOS version at the top left corner of the screen, and the monitor kept flickering / degaussing kind of.
I opened the case up and powered it on without any problem! Closed the case,... same thing. Opened it back up and was looking carefully in the computer for anything that would be shorting out... but it only happened when the case was closed. Bypassed the case switch that tells if the chasis has been opened or not. Took everything off the motherboard except bare bone equipment, and it did the same thing. Used a power supply tester to test the voltages on everything when the case was closed... everything tested ok. I had the same exact model to test with, so the next step was to put this motherboard in a working computer case, and vice versa...
Well After that they both worked!
Long story short, it ended up being that the power supply cable was laying on the memory chips when the case was closed. The power cables were heavy and caused strain on the motherboard which caused the video problems and the computer not to POST. Once the power cables were strapped to the side and out of the way ... everything worked.
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